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Florence with its 400,000 residents is not among the world’s global metropolises and is not even one of the European capitals. Despite this, Florence remains one of the main cities of the entire planet and its name is known to any minimally literate person of each continent. In clinical psychiatry, there is the concept of “Florentine syndrome” meaning a nervous breakdown caused by an abundance of surrounding art objects. A similar cultural shock, albeit not in a clinical form, is probably experienced by every guest of Florence because the “concentration” of cultural heritage per unit area is really the highest in the world.

Florence: Cradle. Workshop. Treasure

This is not accidental as it was the capital of Tuscany where the Renaissance originated and flourished and, in many respects, formulated the ideas and principles underlying our familiar world. We owe the emergence of a rational and then a scientific approach to the cognition and creation of the actual reality to the European Renaissance which placed Man and his Reason at the center of the world. The Renaissance geniuses were the first who began looking for the keys to the secrets of Nature and the Universe that previously seemed sacred and magical for humankind for a long time. The names of the three main “stars” of the Renaissance – Raphael, Leonardo and Michelangelo – are known to any child, and the world artistic culture has reached its peak and a reference point for subsequent generations in the works of these geniuses. But the heritage of the Renaissance includes not only the masterpieces of the “Divine trinity”, it was established by the collective efforts of several generations including many thousands of artists, sculptors and architects, philosophers, poets and writers, scientists, historians, engineers, archaeologists, and antiquarians; and no less by their patrons and philanthropists: bankers, monarchs, aristocrats, popes, and cardinals; as well as pioneer travelers, merchants, artisans, jewellers, winemakers, military leaders, mercenaries, adventurers, astrologers, and many others.

It is important to remember that the Renaissance era is associated with the stereotype we learned from school about the “dark Middle Ages” and the “great Renaissance” that replaced them. This is a fundamentally wrong opposition because without the medieval heritage, without that strong and rich basis the Renaissance would be impossible although it was built largely on its denial. Indeed, the Italian Middle Ages from the 11th century to the middle of the 14th century were not gloomy at all. On the contrary, at that time Italy (and primarily Tuscany) finding itself in the center of world trade routes which had been thrown again across the Mediterranean after the conquests of the Italian Maritime Republics and the Crusades, was experiencing an unprecedented era of prosperity and turned into the world economy center wherethrough all the gold in the world were flowing. Scattered throughout Tuscany magnificent cathedrals and huge but cramped cities built of stone remain an eloquent testament to that era.

The real “dark Middle Ages” came in Italy only after 1348 when an epidemic of the Black Plague swept across the country killing almost a half of its inhabitants. Even before the plague catastrophe, Florence experienced its own “pre-revival” illuminated by the geniuses of Giotto and Dante who translated local painting from “Greek into Latin” and literature from Latin into Italian and, fortunately, did not live to see the nightmare of the Plague. After the plague, Italy was sunk into a kind of shared psychosis for several decades and many of its inhabitants began to perceive the surrounding reality only as a sinful wraith and a host of temptations. It made the arrival of the new century – Quattrocento (“the 15th century” in Italian) much brighter. That time can be compared with awakening after a serious illness when a person rediscovers the colors, smells and sounds of the beautiful world around him and breathes deeply the air of the coming spring. The very term Renaissance is associated, however, not with that “physiological” rebirth after a disease but with the regeneration of culture, the revival of the antique art which still literally lay under Italians’ feet in the 15th century. It should be noted that Ancient Rome as an antique model was the basis and the reference point for all medieval Italian art, starting from its first heyday in the 11th – 12th centuries. This temptation of Antiquity was always very strong. Just remember the Pisa Cathedral and Tower of the 11th – 13th centuries, the grandiose column symphonies of snow-white marble, or an amusing incident of the Florentine Baptistery originally built in the 11th century but considered by the Florentines as an “ancient Roman temple of Mars” until the 20th century. Those medieval “protoRenaissances“, however, had rather an imitative and fragmentary character. The masters of that period borrowed their favorite techniques from the ancient art but they did not perceive them as a system and did not study the treatises of ancient authors, etc.


Cradle
The significance of the Renaissance of the 15th – 16th centuries and its main difference from the previous medieval “proto-Renaissances” is that it is primarily an intellectual phenomenon. Many artists and architects of the Renaissance did not belong to the professional guild environment, they were rather intellectual scribes who collected and translated ancient treatises from Greek and Arabic bit by bit and sought to embody the principles of the “great ancients” in the real practice of their time. That colossal work provided the keys whereby Antiquity was perceived and assimilated systematically and multilaterally, and not fragmentarily and arbitrarily as in the Middle Ages. An essential role in the rapid spread and success of the new era was played by the recently invented book printing, which then carried on a genuine information revolution. A learned architect of the Renaissance did not only try to build the best church or private palace but also had to prove that the building was ideal for its purpose and place and agreed with the precepts of the great art of the ancients by issuing his own treatise containing such the evidence. The early Renaissance originally grew out of an intellectual game similar to the “Caesars of Ancient Rome” which gratified the pride of the nobility and their close artists, philosophers, and poets but soon exceeded those limits reaching its peak in the late republican period of the history of Florence under the auspices of its enlightened patrons – Cosimo (The Elder) and Lorenzo (the Magnificent) Medici.

Workshop
Florence, the cradle and the capital of the Renaissance appears before a stranger as a completely medieval harsh and stone city with its narrow dark streets in the gaps of which the colossal masses of the cathedrals of Santa Maria del Fiore, Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella, the Signoria palace, or private palazzo: residences of Medici Riccardi, Strozzi, Antinori, etc., suddenly burst into the city tightness. This city does not look like European Grand capitals of the modern era such as Paris, Petersburg or Vienna, there are no green boulevards and wide avenues, and the appearance of Florence is typical for all other medieval cities of Tuscany. There is no contradiction here because Florence is a workshop where the culture of the New Age was created but the “walls and roof” of that “workshop” had already existed then, they were erected back in the “dark Middle Ages”. All the other European capitals would never have become themselves without “semi-medieval” Florence because all their future architecture had been invented and first taken a tangible form there, in the scattered in the body of the medieval city masterpieces of the revived correct style “all’antica” which finally came to replace “barbarian Gothic” (after all, it was the Goths who destroyed Rome in their time). A gigantic dome over the Gothic Basilica of Santa Maria del Fiore built by the first revivalist” of Florence Filippo Brunelleschi hovers over the whole Europe of the New Age.

Treasury
Almost the only pure Renaissance architectural ensembles in Florence and its main treasury is the Uffizi Gallery originally built by Giorgio Vasari, the chief architect under the first Tuscan Grand Duke Cosimo Medici for the “Uffizi” (offices), the then “protoministries” of the state just created by Cosimo. The Uffizi were built as two parallel buildings formed the whole street leading from the town hall square of the Signoria to the River Arno and joint with it by a magnificent arch. Almost immediately after the construction, the Uffizi became the residence of the Grand Ducal art collection turning over time into one of the first museums in Europe, into the most precious casket where the main treasures of world culture are kept.
“In this building built by the Duke Cosimo to house the state offices, archives and public offices, the spiritual heritage of Florence are now collected. By a strange coincidence, it was founded just when the era of collection and study came […]. In other galleries, you can appreciate the harmony of the scientific and historical arrangement. I don’t want to think about it here. This place has its own spirit, its own special meaning. The longest bright galleries which are so impassive and strict dispose you seriously. From some windows you can see the excellently calculated perspective of the cornices with the Palazzo Vecchio tower at the end, while the Arno current could be observed from the others. It has a beauty of its own, not entirely alien to the beauty of the old Florentine churches and loggias of Brunelleschi either,” wrote P. Muratov.



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Where to stay in Florence: hotels and city villas

The luxurious five-star Four Seasons Hotel Firenze 5* is located in the center of Florence in a 15th century palace that belonged to the famous Counts of Gherardesca for more than 300 years; and in a 16th century convent, between which an Italian garden of 4.5 hectares is laid out. It offers a Michelin-starred restaurant, a 2-floor spa with treatment rooms, a Turkish bath, gym and the terrace with pool and hot tub – booking.com

The five-star hotel Baglioni Relais Santa Croce 5* is located in the center of Florence next to the Cathedral of Santa Croce in a 18th century palace with luxurious interiors decorated with frescoes. Some rooms have a bathroom with a rain shower, and a sauna or Turkish bath. The hotel restaurant serves dishes prepared of fresh products from the nearby Sant Ambrogio market – booking.com

The five-star hotel St. Regis Florence 5* is set in a historical building designed by Brunelleschi along the Arno River with stunning views of the Ponte Vecchio. Boasting a restaurant, this 5-star hotel features a spa, gym, and luxury rooms with antique furnishings – booking.com

The five-star Hotel Bernini Palace 5* is set in a 15th-century building in a 5-minutes’ walk from Florence Cathedral and Ponte Vecchio. It features antique furniture and Murano-glass chandeliers. Guests can enjoy the panoramic views from the terrace, furnished with tables and chairs. The stylish La Chiostrina Restaurant serves national and international dishes. The lounge bar makes excellent cocktails and a buffet breakfast is provided daily – booking.com

The five-star LHP Hotel River & SPA 5* is located in a 19th century mansion on the Arno embankment, 5 minutes’ walk from the Cathedral of Santa Croce and 10 minutes from the Uffizi. Rooms are decorated in a contemporary style with parquet floors and historic furnishings. It offers spa, terrace overlooking the river, restaurant and bar – booking.com

The five-star Villa Cora 5* is located 1 km from the center of Florence next to the famous Boboli Gardens in a 19th century villa surrounded by a park with an outdoor heated pool. The hotel rooms are decorated in a classical style with antique furniture. The hotel has a wellness center with a sauna, a Turkish bath and a fitness center. The hotel restaurant serves the best Tuscan food and wines – booking.com

The five-star villa-hotel Villa La Vedetta 5* is located in its own garden between the River Arno and the Piazzale Michelangelo observation deck, a 15-minute walk from the Uffizi. Its garden features a hot tub, an outdoor pool and the terrace overlooking Florence. The rooms combine antique furnishings with modern design and marble bathrooms with spa baths. Restaurant menu offers modern dishes and the best Tuscan wines – booking.com

The four-star Plaza Hotel Lucchesi 4* is located on the Arno promenade, 5 minutes’ walk from the Cathedral of Santa Croce and 10 minutes from the Uffizi. The restaurant serves local cuisine. Guests can relax on the rooftop with a pool and a bar offering one of the best panoramas in the center of Florence – booking.com

The four-star Horto Convento 4* hotel is located in the center of Florence, 1 km from the Pitti Palace and the Uffizi, in a newly renovated former monastery complex. The hotel has a separate territory with a well-kept garden and a swimming pool. The rooms offer garden views, air conditioning, and bathrooms with rain showers – booking.com

The four-star Grand Hotel Minerva 4* with a swimming pool and a rooftop solarium terrace is located in the center of Florence, near the central train station. The hotel restaurant offers Italian cuisine, the rooftop bar offers views of Florence main cathedrals, Santa Maria del Fiore and Santa Maria Novella – booking.com

How to get to Florence. Airports, railways and highways

The Tuscan capital Florence is located in the northeastern part of the region at the foot of the Apennines which separate Tuscany and Emilia Romagna, at the intersection of railways and highways leading from Rome northward through mainland Italy and Bologna, with highways and railways extending to the west coast of Tuscany through Pisa, the port city of Livorno and Lucca.

Airports
Florence Peretola Amerigo Vespucci International Airport (FLR) is located just outside the city. It is considered to be the second airport in Tuscany after Pisa. Florence airport is operated by Alitalia, AirFrance, KLM, Dolomiti, Swissair, Vueling and others.

Galileo Galilei International Airport of Pisa (PSA), the largest international airport in the Tuscany region is an hour’s drive from Florence. Pisa airport is operated by the largest low-cost airline Ryanair as well as Easyjet, Alitalia, British Airways, KLM, Air France, Lufthansa, Delta, Pobeda, S7 and others.

Bologna Guglielmo Marconi International Airport (BLQ), the main terminal in the large Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, is located a little over an hour from Florence. Flights to Bologna are operated by Alitalia, Lufthansa Dolomiti, Ryanair, United, Air Canada and others.

The airports of Genoa, Milan and Rome are located at a distance of 2-3.5 hours’ drive from Florence.

Railways and highways. The main railway station of Florence, Santa Maria Novella (Firenze Santa Maria Novella) is located in the historical city center, in 10 minutes’ walk from the Cathedral. High speed trains, coming from the south, from Naples / Rome to the north, to Bologna and then to Milan or Venice arrive here. Regional and intercity trains go from Florence to the west, to Pisa-Livorno and further to the south along the Maremma coast towards Rome, or via Lucca and Viareggio heading to the north towards Liguria, to La Spezia, Cinque Terre, Genoa, etc.
Motorways. The Florence bypass road is approached by a toll motorway leading from the south, from Rome and Perugia to Bologna, Milan or Venice. There is a toll motorway leading to Lucca, Viareggio and further to the north via La Spezia, Genoa to Milan, Turin and Montecarlo/France and some free highways to Pisa and Livorno, as well as to Siena.